Day 3 at Cocos. Wednesday, February 23th 2005

This afternoon the filming crew took a break and the other divers onboard the Ranger — writers and support crew — went out to Manuelita. I don’tt know where to start. It was late in the afternoon when we left. The sky was dark and the surface of the water breaking in swells and whitecaps. … Read more

Day 2 at Cocos. Thursday, February 22th 2005

More filming today. At nine in the morning we are on a MarViva boat, speeding out of the bay and around to the other side of the island. This boat is smaller and more mobile than the Ranger, larger and more stable than our little dingies, and MarViva has offered to transport the diving team … Read more

Day 1 at Cocos Island. Monday, February 21th 2005

Cocos Island: A series of islands, really, one massive and countless miniature peaks that rise from the middle of the Pacific Ocean. The main island is cloaked in forest. The smaller islets, of which there are many, all around the island, are little pyramids of jagged rock. Most have at least one hollowed-out cavern at … Read more

Arrival at Cocos Island. Sunday, February 20th 2005

We’re here! We are at Cocos. We first saw the island, a gray splotch on the horizon, yesterday morning, and by the afternoon we could see its rocky crags, the lush green hills, and two MarViva boats anchored in the bay. Everyone was excited. We had Juan Pablo (director of VOEA and one of Ranger‘s … Read more

Morning watch. Friday, February 18th 2005

We left Golfito last night around 7 and have been traveling southwest toward Cocos ever since. The ocean has been perfectly calm. Those among the new crew who have never spent more than an afternoon sailing (myself included) are learning what it means to live on a boat from the seasoned sailing veterans of the … Read more

The Ranger arrives. Thursday, February 17th 2005

The Ranger is here! She arrived yesterday. Everything has been crazy since — people running around buying supplies, fixing engines, finding old friends — and we’re leaving for Cocos tonight. I’m more excited than I can write. We (Xavier, myself, and some of the MarViva crew) went out to meet the Ranger yesterday morning in … Read more

The Ranger approaches. Sunday, February 13th 2005

Xavier has been in touch with the Ranger crew; they are nearby and should arrive in Golfito tonight. We have been working closely with the staff of MarViva to prepare for the trip to Cocos Island. Some background on MarViva: The organization was created in 2002 to enforce protection in the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine … Read more

Bananas and satellite phones. Monday, February 12th 2005

So here we are, waiting for the Ranger in Golfito. And waiting keeps us busy. There are arrangements with the marina to be made, communications technology for the boat to be tested, press releases to be sent out. Xavier is on the phone non-stop; I’m trying to learn as much as I can about Golfito, … Read more

Golfito. Friday, February 11th 2005

I’m in Golfito. On one side there is jungle; on the other, ocean, and the Ranger should arrive any day. The adventure begins. The trip to the ocean has been mostly through the air. I took a plane from DC to Miami; from Miami to San Jose; and this morning, in a plane that would … Read more